LINCOLNSHIRE DINERS are, quite rightfully, fussy when it comes to their food. As the county that feeds the country, we're perhaps more connected to and have a greater appreciation for the exact origin of our food and its means of production.

As such, local restaurants are acutely aware of the need to reflect our county's food ethos on their menus with local dishes and local ingredients.

For too long the Grille Restaurant in Lincoln's White Hart was under the management of a national restaurant chain. This smartened-up the venue nicely and provided chic dining in the heart of Lincoln. However, with nationally imposed menus, it lost its ability to reflect Lincolnshire food and create its own local identity.

But now, that's all over. The restaurant is back under control of Head Chef Michael House, and once again offers individual, locally sensitive dining of exceptional quality in a stylish environment.

The building is certainly one of the best-looking in Lincoln. A Grade II listed hotel with 50 en-suite bedrooms, the entrance to the White Hart is as slick as the rest of the venue itself.

A large revolving door with polished brass opens into a large cocktail lounge with leather sofas, velvet chairs and a glossy black cocktail bar. In the restaurant the contemporary theme continues, with wenge coloured flooring and dark oak dining tables. Contemporary signage, polished silver cutlery and shimmering glassware create a 'London bistro' feel but with food that is once again able to reflect the city in which the restaurant is based.

"The setting is fantastic." says the restaurant's Head Chef Michael House. "It's perfectly situated between the Cathedral and the Castle, on the Bailgate, which reflects our target audience perfectly. But in some ways it counts against us as it looks a little too extravagant for lunchtime dining. In fact, we're really competitively priced."

Competitively priced is an understatement. Whacking good value is more like it. The Grille Day Menu comprises eight starters, nine main courses and six desserts. Starters are priced from £3.25 to £5.25, main courses from £5.50 to £6.50 and desserts are all priced at less than £4.00.

However, with certain dishes on the menu featuring a Super Seven icon, patrons can enjoy selected dishes at concessionary prices; £7.95 for two Super Seven courses and just £9.50 for three courses. The daytime menu also runs until 6.30pm, and therefore constitutes an 'Early Bird' special for evening diners too.

Given the standard of food in the restaurant, that makes daytime dining at The White Hart exceptional value for money and - with steaks and Sunday Roasts available too - there's no end of choice as well as great value.

"We wanted to create menus that make it possible to enjoy coming to us for lunchtime and after work dining as well as full à la carte meals." says Michael.

Favourites during our visit included a starter Charcuterie of Local Meats, served on a wooden trencher and featuring locally sourced haslet and chine, whilst our favourite main course is the light and delicious Super Seven Pea & Ham Hock Risotto.

Evening dining at the venue sees the restaurant expanding the number of dishes it offers to nine starters, 11 main courses and eight desserts.

Some dishes are more complex variations carried over from the day menu, Roast Parsnip Soup having proved particular popular over winter.

Spring dining sees a Lincolnshire Poacher Cheese Soufflé, the local Charcuterie and Abbey Parks's Asparagus used as a Vol au Vent based dish served with a Poached Egg and Lemon Beurre Blanc.

Exclusive to the evening menu is a Provençal Style Braised Beef dish served with Mashed Potato and a Red Wine Reduction. Breast of Barbary Duck with Dauphinoise Potatoes with Glazed Carrots, Roast Parsnips and Blackberry Sauce.

Naturally, now that Lincolnshire favourites have been allowed to re-emerge, Lincolnshire Pork Belly, Lincolnshire Spring Lamb with Spinach and of course Lincoln Red Beef steaks are all back on the menu.

Local suppliers are used throughout, with Abbey Parks providing vegetables, Monks Road based Fosters Butchers used for meat, and Grimsby's Direct Seafoods making daily house calls.

All food is prepared freshly to order, whilst bread at the venue is baked in-house and desserts - Steamed Treacle Pudding, Orange & Cinnamon Crème Brulée and Chocolate Fondant for instance - are also created in-house.

There's also a selection of local cheeses, and a wine menu devised for the restaurant by Hallgarten  provides diners with ample choice. There are 14 red, 14 whites, 11 wines by the glass and myriad rosé, dessert and sparkling wines too.

Wines are priced between £13.95 and £50.00, with Chilean Echeverria Cabernet Sauvignon just £23.00 and Italian Rosé Pinot Grigio for £18.75.

The staff and management have blatantly pushed the boat out following the venue's freedom to create a dining room which once more exploits the best that Lincolnshire has to offer.

A successful reinvention of what was already a slick-looking restaurant, it's important not to dismiss The White Hart's Grille as preclusively expensive because of its appearance.

Reasonable prices, affordable bistro dining and a diverse menu all create a desirable, approachable and impressive venue to sample the hard work of a talented brigade. Appearances can be deceptive, and behind its hip interior, the White Hart is actually extremely approachable and well-priced for anything from light lunch to full à la carte dining.

One of the finest hotels in Lincolnshire — visit the White Hart Hotel, Bailgate, Lincoln today!