January, according to ‘experts,’ doomsayers and the terminally pessimistic, is the most depressing time of the year. Exhausted and financially stretched after Christmas, with end of year celebrations a fading memory and with miserable weather and dark nights making us all feel glum. Fortunately, there’s an answer. We prescribe taking respite from the winter blues in front of an open fire, with hearty feel-good food whilst self-medicating with a mellifluous bottle of red.

Furthermore, we can think of nowhere better to hibernate and wait for Spring than at one of Lincolnshire's favourite pub-restaurants — Caythorpe’s Red Lion. Cosy, friendly stone pub? Check. Village location? Check. Open fire? Check. Real ale and lots of red wine? Check. Good food? Oh, check, definitely. In fact, head chef Mark Perrymen is marking his first anniversary at the venue with some cracking winter dishes designed to complement the look and feel of the venue brilliantly.

Our visit to the Red Lion, Caythorpe, took place in October, amid torrential rain, blustery winds and plummeting temperatures. Owner John Cork was already busy lighting the large open fire in the bar to pre-empt a brisk lunchtime trade and soon platefuls of Mark’s dishes began to emerge from the kitchen, placed in turn on a traditional pine table nearby.

The main building dates back to 1650, a former row of cottages joined together to create a traditional village pub. A large open fireplace in the lounge area is surrounded by red brick pantiles, and in the adjacent bar, stripped pine floors, an enormous fireplace and traditional furnishings give the venue a casual but considered feel. The dining room seats 40 and is both intimately lit and comfortably appointed. A second dining room accommodates 20 and may be used for private dining, but for obvious reasons, the bar also proves popular. Lunchtime dining at the venue takes place from 12.00-2.00pm, with eight starters, nine main courses and a selection of lighter meals such as jacket potatoes and ciabattas.

À la carte dining at the venue features more substantial versions of the restaurant’s lunchtime menus, with eight starters around £6, nine main courses around £13 and seven desserts.“We believe we offer fine dining in Lincolnshire, but at pub prices.” says Mark. “Great meals begin with great ingredients and around here we’re spoilt for choice.”

The chef moved to Lincolnshire from Doncaster in 2007, and has been extremely impressed with the quality of local produce ever since. Vegetables at the venue are supplied by Boston’s Abbey Parks, fish is delivered from Grimsby by M&J each month and Millstream Butchers in Sleaford provides the venue’s meat, with Lincoln Red beef always on offer and Lincolnshire sausages also firm favourites among the Lincolnshire restaurant’s regular diners.

During our visit, Mark unveiled the new winter menus, with examples of starters including Homemade Fishcakes with Sweet Chilli Sauce, Rillette of Duck & White Truffle Sauce and a Warm Chorizo Salad. Main courses include an excellent Steak & Ale Pudding, Red Lion Beefburger, Fish & Chips and equally satisfying but slightly more formal dishes including Grilled Fillet of Seabass and Lightly Poached Potato Gnocchi vegetarian option.

A flagship dish for the venue is Pan Fried Rump of Lamb served with Champ Potatoes, Roasted Root Vegetables and Redcurrant Demi-Glace. A particular treat for the season is the Red Lion’s exceptionally well-constructed dessert menu: Apple & Blackberry Crumble, Baileys and Chocolate Cheesecake and Raspberry Crème Brulée and Bread & Butter Pudding are all on the menu this winter, with our particular favourite the chocolate Sticky Toffee Pudding, pictured here and served with ice cream and winter berries. A specials board also provides the venue with the opportunity to reflect close working relationships with suppliers who are able to suggest particularly good cuts of meat or batches of fish in order to provide regular diners with variety.

In residence for just around a year during our visit, Mark has certainly made a point of identifying and satisfying his target market. With three à la carte courses available for a respectable £20 a head, dining at this Lincolnshire restaurant is also decidedly reasonable. Lincolnshire diners seek ‘proper’ food and good service, which is what the Red Lion, Caythorpe provides in abundance, and this is perhaps why diners return frequently.

“We’re not chasing awards.” he says. “We’re a country pub restaurant and have no interest in fine dining. We’d rather chase our customers’ approval than rosettes or accolades.”

It’s a policy that serves the venue well; with a comfortable, relaxed environment, quality food from local ingredients and attentive service there’s little missing from the experience. John first came to the venue as a representative of brewery Everards.

“It created a great first impression.” he says. “It’s a cracking country pub and having provided it with beer from the brewery I worked at until 1997, I was delighted when, in 2005, I was able to take it over and concentrate on turning it into somewhere really special. It’s warm, it’s welcoming — everything a good pub restaurant should be.”

With Mark and John making a formidable team, this winter is set to be extremely promising for the venue... that is, as long as John keeps the fire stoked and the real ale flowing.

For a range of Lincolnshire's restaurants, pick up a copy of the latest edition of Lincolnshire Pride Magazine!