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The Lincolnshire Garden: February

Written by Lorraine Bellis on 11th January 2011

Kitchen gardener Lorraine Bellis is involved in a weed war on her future allotment site. Fortunately, she has a trick up her sleeve in the form of the ‘no dig’ method of cultivation!

Weather permitting, February can be the time to begin gardening in earnest for the coming season.

Of course 2010 was a freezing February and as I write this, after experiencing the early snow in December, I have no idea what 2011 will be like. However, February is an opportunity to look back and learn from the lessons in 2010. Last year I grew potatoes for the first time. Why grow potatoes? You may ask, I did wonder the same myself at one point.

Talking Taties

Today, potatoes are an important commercial crop; they are fourth after wheat, maize and rice. The first tubers came to Europe in the 16th century from the Americas and became the crop that fed a population during industrialisation.

We all know about the Irish potato famine in the 19th century which was responsible for the death of over one million people. A late potato blight proved to be the fatal disease that killed the crop. Blight and potato cyst nematode (eelworm) are the two problems that still persist.

Eelworm is a soil borne pest which is widely found across the UK. So far, no cultivar is completely immune to the pest.

However, there is a new biological control method available. The method is planting a non-tuber forming relative of the potato called Solanum sisymbriifolium at least a season  before you want to plant potatoes.

This species stimulates the dormant nematode eggs to hatch, but because it doesn't give them any nutrition they die.

In trials, this plant has caused 60 - 90% of eelworms in different soil types to hatch. This is a higher percentage than potatoes themselves and better than chemical treatments.

Late Blight fungus can be controlled; this is according to the RHS, by planting quicker maturing first and second early cultivars. These are harvested before blight hits in mid to late summer making main crop potatoes particularly susceptible.

For home growers there are now getting on for 200 potato cultivars to choose from. This includes some of the older 'heritage' cultivars. With such a number to choose from there must be something for everyone and every situation.

Here at Damson cottage, growing potatoes in the kitchen garden during 2010 meant losing valuable space to the crop. During 2011

I hope to have the allotment patch ready to grow potatoes. Last year, my main crop potatoes were affected by eelworm and blight. Thankfully, the second earlies were grown on the opposite side of the garden and were not affected.

If you are unsure about which cultivar to grow, but want to try your hand, then there is the option to grown potatoes in sacks. You could try three or four different types for flavour. Sacks are an ideal space saving way to grow potatoes and because you have control over the compost being used, it should be a pest and disease free crop.

January/February is the time to start chitting potatoes. Once chitted, they can be set onto 15 - 20cm layer of compost in a sack and covered with another 10cms of compost. Shoots will appear and when they do, add another layer of compost continuing this until 5cms below the top of the sack. Keep the bag watered and the plants fed until harvested.

Getting Started with Herbs

Mint the perfect accompaniment to potatoes is. This is a great herb to grow in containers.

If introduced to the borders it can be come invasive and its root system will smother other plants. It will make an attractive addition to the patio. Mint is a perennial and grows year on year that can mean it needs some maintenance.

In the case of an older plant, this is usually by taking cuttings from the roots. With the new plants that you may have bought from the garden centre maintenance means potting into large containers before placing on the patio.

If you have an unheated porch or conservatory, you can try sowing some salads in containers.

The porch or conservatory will act like a garden cold frame and give the seeds enough protection to allow early germination to take place.

If you pick some of the 'cut and come again' varieties that have a mix of colours and flavours, they will make a great addition to sandwiches.

During February 2010 there was snow on the ground and so preparation for that season was slow to get going.

I spent time in the greenhouse, using the newly installed propagator and starting some of the seeds that became the tomato glut and the slow sweet pea propagation.

Cataloguing your Hard Work

I took the decision to record in a journal the varieties of plants that I tried to grow. Admittedly, that record keeping is a little sketchy as it appears in more than one journal, however, I am pleased to report that I can already benefit from referring to those records before I begin the 2011 season.

There are lots of ways to record your experiences, if you are a dab hand with technology you may wish to create tables and spread sheets that are electronically stored. My preference is an old fashioned hard backed book, a pencil and the camera.

Photographs can be catalogued on the computer and when I can  decipher my handwriting I can relive the emotions as well as the results recorded in the journal. Whatever method you choose, it is a worthwhile exercise.

Chicken Run

During 2011 I hope to increase my chicken flock, build a new chicken run and relocate the flock, clear the allotment (or least part of it) to begin growing greater quantities of main crops, that's just for starters!

I hope some of you will be bitten by the bug this year and begin growing your own food. 20th March 2011 is the ideal time to start; the spring equinox! Here's to the new season and all it brings!

Lorraine Bellis provides one-to-one tuition to those who wish to establish a kitchen garden.

Lorraine in her Lincolnshire kitchen garden.

Lorraine in her Lincolnshire kitchen garden.