Restaurants in Rutland & Stamford: The George of Stamford
Curated continuity at The George of Stamford ensures it’s a consistent pleasure to visit Stamford’s oldest restaurant
It never gets old, despite its age. Walking through the doors of The George of Stamford always feels fresh, grand and special, which is surprising, given that we’ve visited often and given the fact that the place has offered sustenance to visitors since at least 947AD.
It’s Grade II* listed, arranged over three storeys, with 45 bedrooms, and its oak-panelled dining room, its York Room and London Room (former rest areas for those heading north or south along the Great North Road respectively), in what was the medieval dining hall. Still a love letter to hospitality, with its beeswax and beams, the lovely musky smell of mature open fires and neat piles of The Times newspaper for guests to read, even though they probably get all of their news online these days.
The George is genuinely venerable, yet still offers comfort and assiduous service that’s up there with the best in modern British hospitality. The feeling is, I think, one of curated continuity.
The hotel lost an absolute gentleman in 2023 when Lawrence Hoskins – the hotel’s owner for over 50 years – passed away. His legacy endures with his wife Andrea still keenly involved in the business day-to-day.
Working to maintain a unique experience is General Manager Kay Musgrove leading a team of around 170, including Head Chef Jamie Mason and Service Manager Florian Hertling. Lawrence’s favourite (and very British) stoicism was always ‘onwards and upwards.’ It was a phrase he used often and the team have all taken the expression to heart in his memory.
Accordingly, there continues to be no shortage of investment in the building, its upkeep and its rooms, from the newly-refurbished ‘gallows’ sign over St Martins at the front of the building, to updated bedrooms and the neat monastery gardens to the rear. Even the journey from car park to courtyard is something very lovely.
Along the way we meet Sooty the hotel cat who patrols the monastery gardens, keeping an eye on the birds and squirrels, presumably hoping her gracious service might see a member of the kitchen team taking pity on her and bunging her any leftovers – a bit of lobster or some Severn & Wye smoked salmon perhaps.
Alas, no such quid pro quo is forthcoming, because dining at The George is so delicious there are rarely any leftovers; plates are cleared by diners, hence the reason Sooty is as slender as she is, instead of looking like a feline Daniel Lambert – a portrait of the latter, incidentally, hangs in reception with its flagstones, carved cornice frescoes and grand staircase.
In the hotel’s south wing there’s a lounge, with its grand open fireplace and steps up to The Champagne Bar and to The Garden Room, with its salads, pasta, fish, shellfish and meat dishes. The choice is extensive and it’s the larger of the two restaurants with around 100 covers.
The menu comprises elevated versions of down to earth favourites – chargrilled steaks, an aged-sirloin burger, battered haddock and chips – as well as more upmarket dishes from a Grand Brittany Platter of shellfish to lobster in a Thermidor sauce.
In the north wing of the hotel, meanwhile, there’s the York Bar where locals meet for a pint of Adnams and a robust discussion about the rugby, or a G&T and a brief interlude from supporting some of Stamford’s finest independent retailers.
The pre-eminent experience of The George is dining in The Oak Room with its stone mullion windows, wood panelling and gentle trundles of its trolleys going past tables: the silver-domed beef trolley from which sirloin is carved, plus the dessert trolley, another one heaving with cheese and one for liqueurs. There’s also a dedicated trolley which arrives at your table to flambée Crêpes Suzette, for those seeking a theatrical finale to dining in the restaurant.
The Oak Room menu changes seasonally, although favourites endure, their status hallowed. Taking the Roast Sirloin or Dover Sole off the menu would cause a riot (albeit a very British riot: someone might tut or murmur under their breath – but Britishly, not loud enough for anyone to hear, or anything). Other highlights include Honey-Glazed Breast of Duck, Beef Wellington, Lobster and Rack of Lamb.
No fewer than 25 people in the kitchen work to ensure that across both The Garden Room and The Oak Room restaurants, dishes reflect modern British dining underpinned with classical French techniques and absolutely the best ingredients, with no gimmicks. Everything from cakes to canapés to ice creams, sorbets and petits fours is crafted in-house.
And then there’s the wine list. The ‘short’ version comprises 27 well-considered bins from British fizz and Taittinger Champagne to premier cru Chablis, a nice-sounding Fleurie from Beaujolais and a few dessert wines. The ‘long’ wine list runs to 26 pages!
Private dining is available in The London Room, The King Charles Room on the first floor, and The Lambert Room. If you’re planning to entertain over the festive season, or if you’re seeking to catch up with friends, it would be hard to surpass commandeering an entire space in The George for your exclusive use in which to make merry.
Another welcome addition to The George is The Oak Room’s Prix Fixe menu, offering some of the dining room’s most enduring favourites for £42/two courses, £60/three courses.
It’s a refreshed version of the hotel’s previous walk-in-lunch offer and relative to the effort that goes into each dish and the setting in which you’re dining, it’s an absolute steal.
It’s also a chance to reacquaint yourself with three or four of the hotel’s favourite dishes per course, such as a starter of Twice-Baked Vintage Poacher Soufflé followed by Sirloin of Beef. Such dishes are timeless and satisfying, as is The George itself.
The hotel’s curated continuity is a source of great comfort in a world otherwise replete with trends and gimmicks. At the heart of the hotel is the personable but professional warmth of a really good independently-owned hotel.
Its sense of tradition is authentic, the welcome is genuine, its dining is exceptional. And for these reasons, The George of Stamford remains the absolute heart and soul of the town.
The George of Stamford
The Pitch: “Iconic Hotel, fondly known locally as The Grande Dame of Stamford, with two dining rooms, The Oak Room Restaurant offering fine dining in an absolutely superb setting and the busy, informal and fun Garden Room Restaurant.”
Opening Hours: Open seven days, for dining times across each restaurant, and the Prix Fixe menu within The Oak Room Restaurant, see website.
The George of Stamford, St Martins, Stamford PE9 2LB.
Call 01780 750750 or see www.georgehotelofstamford.com.