Dining Out at Milly’s Bistro
Fresh menus and a horsebox bar on the terrace in which to enjoy an al fresco aperitif. Milly’s at The William Cecil definitely gets our vote as a venue for locals as well as residents who want to enjoy daytime and evening dining or a great Sunday lunching Out at Milly’s Bistro
It was that sort of day. Friday afternoon, really quite sunny and pleasant. It was also the day after the General Election, Friday 5th July, and the terrace adjacent to Milly’s Bistro at The William Cecil was packed with throes of diners
and drinkers enjoying a bit of peace and quiet; probably avoiding discussions of politics at all cost and instead favouring a slow, relaxed afternoon.
Milly’s Horsebox is a relatively new addition to The William Cecil, positioned on the terrace to ensure patrons are within sipping distance of a range of cocktails and decent wines. Sheltered from the breeze, verdant with plenty of flowers and comfortable outdoor sofas, it’s the sort of place that becomes arduous to vacate once you’re in situ with a drink and decent company in front of you. Alas, depart I must as my work was done.
We’d just finished photographing half a dozen of Executive Head Chef Liam Goodwill’s newest dishes for late summer and early autumn. Alongside General Manager Sergio Martinez, Liam and his brigade of chefs – including newly-promoted Head Chef Bex Goddard – are infusing fresh appeal into the hotel via its freshly revamped restaurant.
Milly’s as a brand was created in 2023, but has already proved to hit the spot with diners. The idea was to create a quality bistro-style dining experience that’s stylish, modern and relaxed, but a more premium offering than the range of quality dining pubs by which Stamford is well-served.
In April 2024, the former dining room was transformed into a comfortable space with plenty of soft-seating. Milly’s Lounge was created as the hotel recognised that its patrons were keen to enjoy a leisurely visit for morning coffee, or afternoon tea. It’s a popular space too with the working from home crowd who visit to enjoy a bit of human contact instead of being stuck in their studies on their own; ‘lonely with laptop seeks similar for coffee and company.’
The restaurant itself has relocated into the bar and garden room but on warmer days such as the one during our visit, you can also enjoy dining and a couple of drinks on the terrace itself. Sergio and the team say they’re delighted to find that since creating Milly’s, more and more locals are enjoying The William Cecil for everyday dining and drinks, and they’re especially keen on a very good value set lunch option, which provides an alternative to pub restaurant dining which, let’s face it, Stamford isn’t short of.
Not least among the town’s popular dining pubs is The William Cecil’s sister venue, The Bull & Swan, whose own provision of really satisfying quality pub restaurant dining affords Milly’s the latitude to offer a smarter dining experience, albeit with a very ‘Stamford’ approach of offering good quality but without the stuffiness and with reasonable prices.
The place is open seven days with a breakfast service for residents and non-residents alike, followed by a lounge menu of sandwiches, salads and homemade cakes.
Lunchtime service from noon until 2.30pm (4pm Sunday) offers prix fixe dining with two or three courses for £19 and £24 respectively and three choices per course. À la carte lunchtime dining is also available with five or six options per course.
Sunday lunch is priced at £29.50 or £34.50 for two and three courses respectively and Milly’s Bistro’s provision of a traditional Sunday lunch is rather splendid. Roast rump of Worthington beef is partnered with horseradish Hollandaise, braised beef-stuffed Yorkshire pudding, cauliflower cheese, roast hispi cabbage, braised peas, duck fat roast potatoes and honey roast Chantenay carrots.
Evening dining follows a similar format with a prix fixe set menu, £23 and £28, three courses each, plus à la carte dining via a choice of small plates five starters, six main courses and four puddings plus a British cheese board designed by Stamford’s Rennet & Rind.
Local suppliers are favoured where quality permits. Grasmere Farms provide pork, whilst Price & Fretwell of Derbyshire provide butchery and fish merchant Ritter delivers outstanding seafood to the hotel each day.
The Bull & Swan’s own kitchen garden is a good source of vegetables and herbs, whilst the Burghley Estate provides the chefs with high-welfare venison through the winter. A well-curated wine list comprises 18 white and 18 red wine options plus sparkling and Champagne options and dessert wines.
Recommendations for wine pairings are also provided on menus with plenty of wines available by the glass and under £40/bottle.
The hotel dates back to the 18th century, and was originally three private residences, before being combined into a single building. Part of the Burghley Estate, the place reopened in July 2011 after its original refurbishment.
In 2023 the William Cecil’s restaurant was reopened, taking on its new name inspired by Mildred Cooke, wife of the 1st Baron Burghley, then at the start of 2024 the hotel changed ownership and became part of the Woodford group.
If you’re planning to stay over rather than getting a taxi home, there are 24 beautifully appointed rooms, styled as you’d expect with tasteful heritage colours and some rooms feature or four-poster beds. All of the bedrooms are named after historic figures associated with the Burghley Estate.
Alongside Milly’s Lounge, one of the hotel’s function suites has been re-christened The Exeter Gallery and now has images and biographies of each of the bedrooms’ namesakes.
A mention, too, of the hotel’s private dining rooms, which are worth knowing about as we hurtle towards Christmas. Darcy, Bennet and The Lounge as well as Exeter and Burghley provide useful spaces for office parties or hospitality for clients. The William Cecil is very popular for weddings too, which is hardly surprising because of its pretty grounds and the availability of its marquee.
As election fervour turned to ennui, it seems there was no better place to soak up the sun and enjoy a drink on a pleasant afternoon.
For everyday dining in a lovely setting, for leisurely Friday afternoon drinks, or for a cracking Sunday lunch, Milly’s Bistro at The William Cecil definitely gets our vote!
Milly’s Bistro at The William Cecil in Stamford
SMALL PLATES
Serrano ham, rapeseed oil, £5.50.
Confit garlic, tomato, goats cheese on toasted sourdough, £6.50.
Pea and rocket arancini, spring onion mayonnaise, £4.50.
STARTERS
Buttermilk salmon, wasabi mayonnaise, lime, coriander, £12.
Brixham half shell scallops, bacon and shallot dressing, £12.50.
Steak tartare, croutes, £11.
MAIN COURSES
BBQ lamb breast, baby onions, braised baby gem, peas, £26.50.
Flat iron steak, mushroom & tarragon butter, Koffmann’s fries, £28.
Roast sea trout, heritage tomato, samphire, ratte potatoes, salsa verde, £23.
Pork T-bone, chimichurri,’nduja, cream cheese, Tallington asparagus, £25.
Saag aloo, roast cauliflower, pecans, coriander, £19.
DESSERTS
Strawberry and vanilla tart, elderflower jelly, strawberry sorbet, £10.50.
Choux bun, yellow peach, raspberry, vanilla ice cream, £9.50.
Chocolate and salted caramel delice, Chantilly cream, £9.50.
Apricot tarte tatin, vanilla ice cream, £12.Selection of three British cheeses, oat biscuits, fruit loaf, celery, grapes, £15.
NB: Sample menu and featured dishes, subject to availability and change.
Milly’s Bistro
The Pitch: “Milly’s is a neighbourhood bistro and lounge at the heart of the William Cecil hotel. Enjoy a weekly changing menu, with daily specials, cooked simply, using the best possible ingredients and wines to match.”
Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday, Lunch 12 noon – 2.30pm, Afternoon tea 2.30pm – 4.30pm. Evening service 6pm – 9pm. Sunday, Lunch 12 noon – 4pm. Evening service 6pm – 8pm.
Milly’s Bistro, The William Cecil, High Street, St Martins, PE9 2LJ.
Call 01780 750085 or see www.millysbistro.co.uk.