Lincolnshire Restaurants: The Old Bakery
Lincoln College-backed restaurant offers exceptional dining and the chance to witness the talent of the next generation of chefs… and a comprehensive refurbishment plus all-new menus ensure there’s plenty to enjoy at the new-look Old Bakery…
Over a decade ago, Phil Cooke moved to Lincoln with his partner, whose family are originally from the city, to raise their own family. He loves spending time with his two kids, watching them grow and teaching them all the stuff that a father can impart.
Having worked all over the UK, Phil settled in Uphill Lincoln and has worked at some of the city’s best restaurants from The Jew’s House to the Bronze Pig, just along Burton Road near his current restaurant, The Old Bakery.
“What really appealed was the opportunity to inspire young chefs and to really give them a good start to their careers,” he says. “Education is really important, and empowering somebody to learn, encouraging them to grow is so rewarding. Helping young chefs to thrive is good no matter where you work, and I’ve always enjoyed doing that elsewhere. But here, it’s the whole point of the place.”
The Old Bakery was founded in 2004 and soon became regarded as one of the city’s best restaurants, achieving two AA Rosette status. In December 2022, Lincoln College took on the restaurant and now it runs as a not-for-profit establishment which offers local students the opportunity to gain experience working in a real restaurant.
In June 2023 Phil arrived and alongside sous chef Daniel Burland, the two now offer young chefs the chance to develop their skills in the kitchen, and at front of house, working their way around each station to gain well-rounded experience and fundamental skills which will stay with them not just for months or years, but for the rest of their working lives.
Future chefs typically pursue National Vocational Qualifications (NVQs) in Catering & Hospitality, from levels one to three. After their first year, students at the college have the opportunity to join Phil and Daniel in the kitchen, typically three in the kitchen and a couple at front of house, for a few months at a time.
Because the restaurant operates on a not-for-profit basis, customers benefit from less expensive dining, but also the knowledge that they’re helping to further the careers of youngsters.
That philosophy will go even further soon as Wednesdays at The Old Bakery will soon see the students take full control of the kitchen from designing and costing their own dishes, and running service, not just working under Phil – although he’ll still be on hand to support them and offer his support.
The restaurant has thrived under Phil and Daniel as much as the students themselves, and three months ago, Lincoln College invested further in the restaurant with a comprehensive refurbishment.
An old bakery (obviously) the building previously had a small front reception area, and a private dining room in which the old bread oven was situated, with a snug behind and the main dining area at the back of the place.
The refurbishment, has included a successful reorganisation of the space, with the removal of a wall to open up the front bar area and former bakehouse. The snug remains, as does the main dining space in the conservatory. In total the place has around 40 covers and it’s been smartened up throughout.
There’s a lovely deep dark olive colour on the building at the front, and inside, a brooding dark grey creates a nice contemporary rustic feel.
The floor is covered in old terracotta tiles, the bar has tall seating with velvet banquettes and marble tables… it’s very good looking, a nice balance of traditional and modern. The conservatory, too, has limestone flooring and plenty of natural light, and the space is used much more effectively since the refurbishment.
Saturday and Sundays see a brunch menu from 9am-11am, with such favourites as Eggs Benedict, Royale and Florentine, Shakshuka and BLT. Later on Saturday, from noon until 3pm the restaurant offers Feast & Fizz, with a brace of dishes from a choice of six options and a range of cocktails, mocktails and fizz.
A dedicated Sunday lunch sees Topside of Beef and Roast Leg of Lamb, plus glazed roast carrots and parsnips, big Yorkies and thick gravy made from pan juices.
Otherwise, a Lounge Menu offers snacks, small plates (e.g.: Camembert & Croute) and large plates (Lincolnshire Venison Burger with crispy shallots and Poacher cheese).
Meanwhile, in the restaurant, a Prix Fixe menu £25/two courses; £32/three courses) offers three choices per course on Thursdays and Fridays, and runs alongside an à la carte menu offering a choice of four starters, six main courses including a signature Chateaubriand. Finally, there’s a weekly-changing taster menu too, offering at £65/head or £95/head with a flight of wine.
Not only is the restaurant supporting the next generation of chefs, it’s also supporting local producers from Wards Butchers of Ruskington, to Grimsby’s Premier Seafoods, Cold Hanworth Game, Lincoln fruit and veg retailer Fresh From the Fields, and a number of local drinks suppliers too.
Phil and his team prepared a range of dishes for us from the restaurant’s à la carte menu, each nicely presented with well-conceived flavours allowing one key ingredient to come to the fore and hints of other elements enhancing, not competing with the dish.
Our Beef Cheek was slowly braised in soy and served with pickled mushroom for lovely umami flavours and a bit of a sweet zing courtesy of pineapple salsa.
Our duck was beautifully cooked with roasted plums and lovely hints of anise. A Blackberry Panna Cotta was a welcome return to autumn dining with compressed apple, pecan and meringue.
With three courses for just £40, it’s exceptionally good value. And if these dishes set a precedent for quality, flavour, presentation and the use of locally sourced ingredients that will be upheld throughout the young chefs’ careers, the future of dining in Lincoln is in very safe and very skilful hands.
The Old Bakery Burton Road, Lincoln
The Pitch: “The county’s only not-for-profit restaurant can often be seen as ‘Lincolnshire’s restaurant’ as we place huge importance on food provenance and using local ingredients.”
Opening Hours: Wednesday 11am-2pm; Thursday to Saturday 11am-2pm, 5pm-9pm;
Sunday, lunch 12noon-4pm evening service 6pm-8pm.
The Old Bakery, Lincoln, Burton Rd, Lincoln LN1 3LB.
Call 01522 244646 or see www.theold-bakery.co.uk.
Read the full feature in the November edition of Lincolnshire Pride, at https://www.pridemagazines.co.uk/lincolnshire/view-magazines?magazine=November-2025