Restaurants in Lincolnshire: Fletchers

Brand new, very impressive and with exceptional dishes on the menu, this month we’re enjoying Fletchers Public House in Grantham, a brand new restaurant created by chef Adebola Adeshina

‘What’s in a name?’ pondered Shakespeare. Of course, he did so vicariously, through Juliet. ‘That which we call a rose, by any other name would smell as sweet.’ 

Alas, the course of love for literature’s two most famous protagonists went horribly wrong. However, on the point of nomenclature, and as we approach Valentine’s Day, if you’re seeking somewhere romantic to dine with your other half, don’t be put off by the fact that Fletchers in Grantham self-identifies as a public house rather than a bistro or restaurant. Because, irrespective of its designation, it is in every way a very sweet recommendation.

Fletchers’ creator, Adebola Adeshina, is an insanely talented chef and a truly successful restaurateur. He has worked alongside Gordon Ramsay at the latter’s three Michelin-starred restaurant (that’s one restaurant with three stars, not three restaurants with one each) and he has worked with Marcus Wareing at Petrus, Philip Howard at his two-Michelin-starred Mayfair eatery, Square. And, alongside Éric Chavot, formerly of Le Manoir and Brasserie Chavot. Suffice it to say, Ade has worked in some of the most demanding environments under the most demanding chefs.

In 2017, he defied Samuel Johnson by tiring of London. He and his wife Alina moved to the village of Castor near Peterborough and set up The Chubby Castor in the pretty Grade II-listed thatched pub in the village, earning three AA rosettes for its exceptional food and a place in both the Michelin  Guide, and The Good Food Guide.

Then, just over a year ago, Ade established Heritage Social and set up Westgate Bakery in Grantham. The bakery produces proper artisan bread, pastries, and it also offers an excellent brunch menu and really good coffee.

Finally, about a month before our visit, Ade also opened the doors of Fletchers with the intention of ‘bringing people together in a warm, community-focused place, with high quality, comforting food at an affordable price.’

Fletchers refers to itself as a public house, but I reckon that term rather undersells it. Forget ‘pub food’ and Sky Sports on the TV or pool tables (there’s none of that), this is a genuinely fantastic and impressive place to enjoy great dining, albeit in the relaxed, warm and comfortable environment that Ade envisaged. Think of Fletchers, then, as democratising exceptional dining.

A lunch for less prix fixe menu offers a choice of two starters, two mains and two desserts for £22/two courses, £28/three courses and is available from Thursday to Saturday from noon until 3pm. 

During our visit, we’d choose the Autumn vegetable soup with truffle and sourdough, followed by a pork tenderloin with mashed potatoes, prunes and gravy, followed by the croissant bread and butter pudding with tonka bean custard. The price of that relative to the craft and the quality of Fletchers’ ingredients makes that a bargain, we reckon.

For those dining in the evening there’s an à la carte menu comprising a few snacks/small plates (e.g.: Maldon oysters, sourdough from  Westgate Bakery), plus five starters and seven main courses. 

And then there’s a section on the menu marked Feasting, which it suggests will feed two or three diners. Whole market fish, moules marinières  and a BBQ whole chicken are three examples, but the final one was what emerged from the kitchen. A 16oz Tomahawk steak the likes of which would make even Fred Flintstone giddy. 

Served with Koffman skin-on chips with truffle mayo and parmesan, it was crowned with what looked like café de Paris butter and measured a good two inches thick. During our session photographing dishes, the restaurant received a few deliveries and without exception, each driver walked past and expressed wonder. It’s definitely a dish that will draw impressed coos of admiration when it arrives at the table.

Like our Wagyu burger from the selection of main courses, it’s an example of how Ade and the team can elevate dishes, not by adding other elements or with gimmicks, but by using really good ingredients, and letting good old-fashioned chefcraft do the heavy lifting. The burger was well-judged, not sloppy or overloaded as some can be, with a good thick Wagyu patty and plump golden chips, slightly crispy on the outside and lovely and fluffy inside.

Having opened just a few weeks before our visit, Ade is using tried and trusted suppliers, and is keen to provide a home to as many local ingredients as possible. Of course, the bread is from the company’s own bakery, but vegetables, subject to quality, and consistency, are sourced from Grantham’s own community of allotment growers.

Glinton Farm, just over the border in Cambridgeshire, is also supplying Fletchers, but Ade favours good ingredients and reliable suppliers first and foremost, so whilst local produce is desirable, he’s not afraid to source from further afield, from Creed Carver poultry or Celtic hand-dived scallops.

The place itself is right on Grantham’s Westgate. It’s Grade II listed and it has been tastefully designed with some soft seating, restaurant tables and an area at the back which will suit private dining.

In the summer months, diners will be able to enjoy the courtyard garden and as the building reaches up four storeys, the team are also creating seven boutique hotel-style bedrooms for those visiting from further afield.

Ade’s Chubby Castor is already an impressive ‘fine dining’ restaurant which offers style and substance, albeit with a price commensurate to the style of food it creates.

However what Fletchers does is to prove that even at a lower price point, Ade and the team can produce absolutely brilliant dishes and remain faithful to their ethos of a modern yet nostalgic comfortable and relaxed dining experience. A definite recommendation and likely to become very popular, very quickly.

On the Menu
Starters: Duck liver parfait, plum compote, toast, £8.
Orkney scallop, butter sauce, herbs – cooked in shell, £19.
Gelston Farm lamb kofta, harissa mayo, pickled shallots, £10.
Chicory, walnuts, Roquefort & orange salad, £10.Belhaven smoked salmon, guacamole & yuzu mayo, £14.
Main Courses: Deep fried hake, Koffmann chips, peas & marjoram, tartar sauce, £22.
Roast Cod and winter Ratatouille, £27.Creedy Carver Duck, Puy lentils & carrot, £22.
Wagyu burger, Applewood, streaky smoked bacon, Koffmann chips, £19.
Dingley Dell pork rack, king cabbage, Pomme Anna & prunes, £26.
Venison suet pie, mash potatoes, greens, gravy, £17.
Honey roast squash, Hen-of-the-wood mushrooms, preserved tomatoes, £18.
Feasting (2/3 people): Whole Market Fish, Charlotte potatoes, wilted greens, beurre blanc, £68.
Moules Marinière, fries & sourdough, £40.
BBQ whole chicken, kimchi coleslaw, jollof rice, £50.
16oz Tomahawk steak, Koffmann skin-on chips, dressed salad, peppercorn sauce, £88.
Desserts: Croissant Bread & Butter pudding, tonka custard £10.
Chocolate brownie pot £7.
NB: Sample menu and featured dishes, subject to availability and change.

Fletchers Public House
The Pitch: “Fletchers offers high-quality, comforting food at an affordable price, designed to bring people together in a space that blends traditional pub charm with contemporary comfort.” 
Opening Hours: Wednesday 4pm-10pm, Thursday Noon-11pm, Friday/Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 11am-6pm.
Fletchers: 90 Westgate, Grantham NG31 6LE. Call 020 8149 3777 or see www.fletcherspublichouse.com.